Get Those Seedlings in the Ground - FineGardening (2024)

How-To

Whether you raise them yourself or buy them, help ease the way for tender young plants

By Linda Wesley

Fine Gardening - Issue 19

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I hate to admit it, but last spring my basil fell victim to neglect. Overzealous garden planning in January, followed by a frenzy of seed-starting, left me in a June panic. So many seedlings to get in the ground, so little time to do it. The basil seedlings, some of the last plants to leave the warmth and protection of my light stand indoors, were hastily set outside the kitchen door while I turned my attention to getting tomato, pepper, and eggplant seedlings in the ground. For a couple of days, the basil plants looked just fine. By the time I had the chance to give them a second thought, the damage was done. Their tender leaves were literally scorched from the harsh noonday sun, and the plants had turned brownish and sickly. I had done nothing to ease their passage into the real world.

Amazingly, those basil seedlings recovered, but by not hardening them off properly, I set them back considerably. Luckily, I didn’t treat all my young plants so poorly. By and large, I’ve learned that some planning and attention up front, as well as a watchful eye once they’re in the ground, will help seedlings grow into healthy, productive plants. And when ambitious intentions do get away from me, it’s comforting to know that all plants strive to grow, bear fruit, and set seed, despite an occasional lapse on the part of the gardener.

Give seedlings a good start

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Sowing a packet of seeds in the dead of winter is uplifting—the smell of damp soil fills the air, and spring doesn’t seem so far off. But in reality, spring may be months away and until it’s reliably warm in the garden, many plants started from seed need to be cared for indoors. Here you’ll need to provide them with an environment where they can flourish.

I raise seedlings on a three-tiered stand with fluorescent bulbs hung by chains so the lights can be raised as the seedlings grow. Keeping the lights an inch or two above the plants makes them strong and stocky. Without a good light source, phototropism will cause seedlings to reach for light and become weak and spindly.

Once seedlings have one or two sets of true leaves, it’s time to start fertilizing. Many gardeners use a weak solution of water-soluble fertilizer like Miracle-Gro; fish-emulsion or seaweed products are good organic alternatives. Either way, regular feedings will encourage strong growth. I like to use a liquid fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number of the N-P-K formula) than nitrogen or potassium. The additional phosphorous promotes strong root development. My pots sit in plastic trays so I can water and fertilize from below.

Pot on, pinch back, and toughen them up

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Whether you start your own seeds, or buy seedlings at a local garden center or by mail, chances are they’ll need to be potted on before you can get them in the ground. This is especially true of those crops that can’t be planted until the soil has warmed up, like tomatoes and peppers. Cramped, crowded roots will send seedlings into quick decline. So move them up to larger pots where root growth can continue to pro­gress with leaf development. Three- or 4-inch pots are a good size for little plants that have outgrown six-packs. If you’re separating seedlings started in a flat, gently tease apart roots with your fingers or a pencil. Be sure to label the transplants.

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Given good conditions, seedlings grow quickly. The plant hormone auxin is present in a seedling’s terminal bud and assists in growth by making cell walls more elastic. Auxin, however, suppresses growth at a seedling’s lower lateral buds. If you pinch out the terminal bud, and thus the auxin, side shoots will grow. This results in bushy, many-branched plants and eventually more flowers and fruit. Once seed­lings are 3 or 4 inches tall with a good supply of true leaves, I pinch them back. You can use scissors or pruning shears, but thumb and forefinger work just fine.

While your seedlings are growing indoors, toughen them up by man-handling them a bit. Regularly run your hand over the tops of the little plants. This brushing or stroking will help ready the seedlings for the harsh outdoors.

The timely art of hardening off

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Hardening off is the process of getting seedlings acclimated to conditions in the garden. Cool temperatures, wind, rain, and bright sunlight can be harsh for young plants raised indoors. So ideally, it’s best to expose seedlings to these conditions slowly. Most gardeners take a week or two to harden off plants, first moving them outdoors to a shady location during the day and bringing them in at night. Gradually, they expose the seedlings to direct sunlight for longer periods.

Moving trays of seedlings in and out and in and out morning and evening can be a tedious process. I’ve found a cold frame to be invaluable in providing a sheltered environment for seedlings getting used to the outdoors. I may bring seedlings back in at night for a couple of days, but then they stay in the shelter of the cold frame where I lower the lid to protect them from cool night temperatures. In the daytime, the lid is opened but the cold frame still provides protection from harsh winds.

Finding your own transitional spaces is key to hardening off. Locations that provide some protection from the elements like a shady porch, a sheltered spot by the side of the house, or under some shrubs are good possibilities. Keep an eye on the weather while you’re hardening off seedlings and protect them from extremes like torrential rain or an unseasonable dip in nighttime temperatures.

Plant on an overcast day

A gloomy, cloudy day is the best time to plant seedlings in the garden. If it’s lightly drizzling, all the better. But if the forecast is for fair weather, avoid planting seed­lings in the hot, mid-day sun. Get an early start in the morning, or wait and set a few plants in the ground at the end of the day.

Slip the seedling out of its pot and gently loosen the roots if they’ve become pot-bound. If your seedling has been growing in a peat pot, peel away as much of the pot as possible without disturbing the root ball. It’s especially important to remove the top of the peat pot to prevent it from wicking moisture away from the plant’s roots once it’s in the ground.

Give seedlings some protection from sun and wind for a few days after they’ve been transplanted. Overturned pots or baskets, row covers, or shade cloth will shelter them temporarily while roots settle in. Water the seedlings every third day, or more often if it’s unusually hot, until they become established.

Provide additional protection from insect predators, depending on the plant. Cutworm collars are advisable for most seedlings. Cole crops are vulnerable to the larvae of cabbage butterflies and other moths, so many gardeners cover them with floating row covers to prevent the moths from laying eggs.

Be on the lookout for slugs and remove debris that gives them a place to hide. If you suspect slug damage, check the beds at night with a flashlight and hand pick the culprits.

It won’t be long until seedlings grow into big, robust plants. But in the meantime, a watchful eye and some doting care will help seedlings adjust to the wild world of the garden.

Learn more …

For links to articles, blog posts, and videos on starting vegetable and flower seeds, see All About Starting Seeds .

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Get Those Seedlings in the Ground - FineGardening (2024)

FAQs

Get Those Seedlings in the Ground - FineGardening? ›

Here's and easier way: When the first true leaves appear, snip off the extra seedlings at the soil line. You'll be left with only as many seedlings as you need.

When should I pinch off seedlings? ›

Here's and easier way: When the first true leaves appear, snip off the extra seedlings at the soil line. You'll be left with only as many seedlings as you need.

When should seedlings go into the ground? ›

You'll know they're ready if their cotyledons are turning yellow, they've already grown 1 or 2 sets of true leaves, or their roots are growing through the drainage hole in their seed tray.

How do you protect seedlings in the ground? ›

Drape clear plastic or garden fleece over recently sown blocks or rows of young seedlings. Individual plants can be protected with squares of plastic or fleece cut to size, or by using purpose-sold cloches. Alternatively, make your own from clear plastic drinks bottles.

When to move seedlings to the greenhouse? ›

You can put seedlings in an unheated garden greenhouse when they are still tiny, such as when they are in their seed starting trays or pots. Generally speaking seedlings can be transplanted when they have just two sets of leaves upwards. The time frame for this is usually when they are 2-4 weeks old.

Can you just sprinkle seeds on the ground? ›

If there is no vegetation in the space where you plan on growing wildflowers, your chances of success may be a bit better if you simply toss the seeds onto the ground. However, if you really want to ensure their success, preparing the soil is highly recommended!

Should you pinch sage seedlings? ›

Pinch the growing tips of your sage plant several times during spring and early summer. This will produce a bushier plant and slow the formation of flower buds. Harvest the leaves when they are young, either by pinching them off individually or snipping an entire stem at the base.

Which seedlings need to be pinched? ›

Dahlias and most annual flowers including: zinnias, sweet peas, rudbeckia, marigolds, calendula, amaranth, branching sunflowers, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, impatiens, most snapdragons, salvia, and petunias, just to name a few, provide more generous harvests when pinched.

At what point do you thin out seedlings? ›

We recommend thinning seedlings when they are still young, between two to three inches in height at two to three weeks of age.

How long should seedlings stay in trays? ›

Typically, your seeds will stay in their seed tray for 4-6 weeks. After this period, you will either need to transplant the new seedlings into larger pots or transplant them outside. Check your seed instructions and pay attention to your frost dates before transplanting young plants outside.

How often do you water seedlings in the ground? ›

Generally, vegetable seedlings require watering every 1-2 days. It's essential to check the soil moisture; it should be moist but not waterlogged. In hotter or drier climates, or under intense grow lights, you may need to water more frequently.

How deep should I bury my seedlings? ›

As deep as possible, right up to the bottom of the cotyledons (the seed leaves). Why?... Because new roots will grow out of the sides of the seedling stem along the entire length of the buried section.

What's eating my seedlings at night? ›

There are several possibilities for the damage you see, most likely either snails, slugs, earwigs or birds. Soil and plant moisture levels from all the rain we've had right now favor the likelihood of snail, slug or earwig. These pests are night feeders.

How to keep bugs off seedlings? ›

Garden Guides suggests using one part vinegar - white or apple cider vinegar are great options - with three parts water in a spray bottle. Add a teaspoon of dish soap. Mix the contents thoroughly and spray on both sides of your vegetable plants, not on the vegetable itself.

Do I need to harden off seedlings before putting in greenhouse? ›

You may have heard the term “hardening off” regarding seedlings you start indoors, but many folks don't realize it's also important for mature plants grown inside a greenhouse. To harden off a plant means to slowly acclimate it to a new environment so that they don't go into shock and suffer damage or even die.

How hot is too hot for seedlings in a greenhouse? ›

First and foremost, it's essential to understand what the perfect temperature for your DIY backyard greenhouse should be. Ideally, anywhere between , 80-85°F (26-29°C) is the golden standard throughout the spring and summer months. Anything higher than 90°F (32°C) is cause for alarm.

Why are my seedlings dying in my greenhouse? ›

Whether you start with seeds or clones, the tender seedlings can suffer from overheating, underfeeding, and lethal fungi. Check on your little plants every day and when you see any of these symptoms, take quick action to fix the problem and keep your crop growing strong.

Can you put seedlings straight into the ground? ›

Growing from seeds indoors is one way of starting your garden. Another option is to tuck seeds directly into soil outdoors. Planting seeds this way is called direct sowing, and it is an easy process that yields great results.

What kind of seeds can I just throw on the ground? ›

I call these my 'toss and grow' seeds. You basically toss them into the ground, rake a little soil over them and water. Zinnia: These are my favorite and top the list because: deer and rabbits do not eat them, they come in a variety of colors, heights and sizes.

What is it called when you put seeds in the ground? ›

The process of putting seeds into the soil is called sowing. This is the primary process in the cultivation of crops or agriculture.

How do I make my seedlings bushy? ›

Pinch back seedlings to promote bushy, many-branched plants.

What not to plant next to sage? ›

SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or rue. Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles.

How big should seedlings be before planting outside? ›

The general rule of thumb is that when a seedling has three to four true leaves, it's large enough to plant out in the garden (after it has been hardened off). When you plant a seed, the first leaves to emerge are the cotyledons. These leaves will look different from leaves that will grow later.

How big should seedlings be before pricking out? ›

When your seedlings have two or more sets of leaves and are large enough to handle, it's time to give them more room. Westland have the right equipment and advice to ensure pricking out is smooth. Seedlings that outgrow seed trays will begin to fight for light, water and nutrients.

When should I start hardening off seedlings? ›

In general, begin the hardening process 7-10 days before the date you intend to plant them out in your garden and once the danger of frost has passed. If your growing zone generally recommends that starts don't go outdoors until the last week of May, begin hardening seedlings a little more than a week before.

When should I start pinching my plants? ›

So, how do you pinch off your flower plants? First, wait until the plant is 8-10 inches tall. Using clean snips, cut off the top couple inches of the plant, directly above a set of leaves. Within a week, you will see new stems growing from where you cut off the plant.

When should I take the cover off my seedlings? ›

When do I remove the greenhouse cover on my seed starter? The greenhouse cover holds in moisture, raising the humidity for fast germination. As soon as you see the first tiny sprout, remove the cover. This allows air to circulate around seedlings, minimizing disease problems.

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